Some plants, such as lavender, boxwood, holly, and privet, are not generally available in bare-root form and are grown and sold in pots. The planting technique is similar to that for bare-root types but pot-grown hedging can be planted at any time of year, as long as the soil is not frozen or very dry.

When to plant: Any time; early autumn or spring is best.

At their best: All year (evergreen); Spring to autumn (deciduous).

Time to complete: 3 hours or longer depending on hedge size.

You will need: Pot-grown holly plants – Ilex aquifolium, well-rotted organic matter – such as manure, all-purpose granular fertilizer, spade, fork, stakes, garden string, watering can or hose.

Dig planting holes

Prepare the soil and mark out the area as in Steps 1 and 2 from here How to Plant a Formal Hedge. Either dig a long trench or individual holes for each plant—holes need to be as deep as the root

ball and twice as wide.

Tease out roots

If planting in spring, add some fertilizer to the excavated soil. Tease out any congested roots before planting at the same depth as the plant was in its original pot. Firm in with your foot and water well.

Sweet, soothing, scented chamomile has long been a desirable alternative to grass, and with the availability of turf, it is quick and easy to lay. Chamomile likes free-draining soil and, because it will not tolerate heavy wear and tear, is most suitable for decorative lawns or fragrant seats.

When to start: Early autumn or early spring.

At their best: All year round.

Time to complete: 2 hours or more for larger lawns.

You will need: Chamomile turf, well-rotted organic matter – such as manure, horticultural grit, all-purpose granular fertilizer, topsoil and horticultural sand.

Lay the turf

Prepare your site as for turf (How to Turf a Lawn), and if you have heavy clay, dig in lots of grit to ensure that your soil drains freely; waterlogged soil will kill chamomile. Turf will consist of Chamaemelum nobile ‘Treneague’, a nonflowering, compact plant that spreads to form a dense mat. Lay the turf in the same way as grass (check: How to Turf a Lawn).

Caring for chamomile

There’s no need to mow chamomile because it naturally grows to just 2. in (6 cm) in height. Trim it occasionally during summer, using garden shears to remove straggly growth and sideways spread. Pull out any weeds by hand before they have time to establish—do not use lawn weedkiller, which will kill the chamomile. Each spring, apply a slow release granular fertilizer and sprinkle a top dressing of sieved soil and horticultural sand over the lawn. Tread in the dressing to crush the stems, which promotes strong root growth.

Although lavenders are generally easy plants, requiring little or no additional watering once established, they do need annual care. Leave small, young plants unpruned for the first 12 months after planting to allow them to put on some growth, but in subsequent years cut your hedge twice a year to prevent it becoming leggy.

When to start: Late summer, after flowering, and early spring.

Time to complete: 1 hour or longer depending on hedge size.

You will need: Garden shears, household disinfectant, clippers, all-purpose liquid fertilizer.

Prune into shape

To keep your lavender plants young, bushy and healthy, cut them back in late winter or early spring. Clean your tools thoroughly and spray them with a household disinfectant before you begin work. Then, using sharp shears, cut the stems back as close as possible to the old wood.

The correct cut

Take care not to cut into old brown wood, since the plants will not reshoot from this. Shear to a few healthy leaves above the brown stems, and work systematically along the hedge, keeping it as level as possible.

After flowering

In late spring or early summer, the sheared plants will grow an abundance of side shoots to create a compact, bushy hedge. To keep it neat, cut it back again after flowering in late summer: remove all the old flower heads to prevent the plants from putting their energy into making unwanted seed.

Wander down any residential street in the Mediterranean region and you will find houses ablaze with fiery geraniums. These drought-loving plants bask happily in the burning sun in their tiny terracotta pots, creating a dazzling display that requires very little care. If you have a sunny wall, buy young plants in late spring to create your own summer holiday effect at home.

When to plant: Late spring.

At their best: Early summer to early autumn.

Time to complete: 2 hours.

You will need: Bedding geraniums – Pelargonium, small terracotta wall pots, broken clay pot pieces and gravel, multi-purpose soil, slow-release all-purpose fertilizer, masonry nails or rawlplugs and coach bolts, hammer or electric drill.

Prepare the wall pots

Buy at least five wall pots and make sure that each has a drainage hole—if not, make one with an electric drill. Cover the hole with a piece of clay pot. Add 1 in (2 cm) of gravel and then a layer of soil to the base of each container.

Plant the geraniums

Water the plants. Put one geranium (Pelargonium), still in its original container, into the wall pot and check that it will sit at least 1 in (2 cm) below the rim when planted. Remove it from its pot and plant up, firming in around it with multi-purpose soil mixed with a little slow-release fertilizer. Water well.

Fix pots to wall

For a more dramatic effect, paint the wall white or a pale color. Hammer in a masonry nail at a slight angle; alternatively, if you can’t drive in a nail, drill a hole with an electric drill, push in a Rawlplug, and screw in a coach bolt. Fit the pots onto the wall.

Tips: Watering your pots

Geraniums require watering every few days in summer, so make sure you can reach them easily or use a long-handled hose. As the plants grow and their roots develop, it is best to water them from below by placing the wall pots in a bowl of water for 30 minutes.

This simple design of square paving stones and plants could be used to create a dramatic courtyard or a fun space for children’s playground games. Plant it up with turf, chamomile, mind-your-own-business (Soleirolia soleirolii) or low-growing herbs, such as thyme or Corsican mint (Mentha requienii).

When to start: Spring.

At their best: All year round.

Time to complete: 1 day.

You will need: Turf or low-growing plants, rake, wooden boards, tape measure, string and sticks, sand and mortar mix, mallet, spirit level, square paving stones.

Compact the soil

Clear the area of stones, weeds, and grass, and rake it to create a flat surface. Lay down a wooden board and walk across it, moving it along systematically to level the whole area.

Mark out the squares

Measure the paving stones, and using string and some sticks mark out the area into squares of equal size. Cover squares that will be used for paving stones with a 2 in (5 cm) layer of sand.

Level the sand

Using the back of a rake, tamp down the sand to compact and level it. Don’t worry if some sand spills out into the surrounding squares; any surplus can be mixed with the soil for the plants or turf.

Apply mortar

Mix up a wet mortar mix of four parts sand (half-and-half sharp sand and builder’s sand) to one part cement, or use a prepared mix. Place a trowel-full in the corners and in the center of a paving stone square.

Bed in paving stones

Position the paving stone on the mortar and use the wooden end of a mallet to gently tap it into place. Use a spirit level to check that it is level. Mortar in each one in the same way and leave them to set for a day or two.

Plant up

Fill between the paving stone with topsoil and plant up the herbs or turf. If using turf, lay it slightly above the paving stones so you can run a mower over the whole area. Water in. Keep plants watered until they are established.

Dry stone walls make perfect homes for alpines, such aubretia, which creates a mass of evergreen foliage and cascades of pretty flowers in spring. Choose small plants and use this planting method to secure them in the wall.

When to plant: Early autumn.

At their best: Spring.

Time to complete: 30 minutes.

You will need: Bucket, piece of dried turf.

Alpines, such as: Aubrieta, Campanula poscharskyana, Houseleek – Sempervivum, Gold dust – Aurinia saxatilis, Saxifrage – Saxifraga.

Prepare to plant

Take the dried turf and dunk it in a bucket of water to drench it. Remove and allow to drain. Water the plant and remove it from its pot. Wrap the damp turf around the plant roots.

Ease plants into crevices

Carefully wedge the turf-wrapped plant into a crevice. Fill around it with a half-and-half mix of horticultural sand and soil-based potting mix. Mist the plant regularly.

Some trees have particularly beautiful bark, and you can create a dazzling effect by encouraging them to develop multiple stems. This involves some drastic pruning, but the end result is well worth it.

When to plant: Late autumn.

At their best: Winter.

Time to complete: 3 hours.

You will need: One tree, spade, fork, organic matter, pruning saw, stake, tree tie.

Prepare the ground

Dig out a planting hole, as deep as the root ball, and at least twice as wide. Puncture the base and sides of the hole with a fork. Mix a little organic matter into the excavated soil. Plant your tree so that the rootball is slightly proud of the surrounding soil surface, using a stake to check the planting level. Backfill with soil, stake, then secure firmly with a tree tie. Water well.

Planting and staking

You can buy multi-stemmed trees, which require no further pruning, but it is cheaper to buy a single-stemmed tree and prune it yourself. Ideally you should give it a full growing season first, then the following winter, cut the trunk to the ground, and remove the stake.

Aftercare

New stems will appear from the base in spring, and become the new framework of branches. If there are many, prune them selectively to promote a good shape. Water the tree freely the first year after planting, and the year after pruning to help it recover. Feed with a tree and shrub fertilizer in early spring.

Tips: Planting options

Some trees are better suited than others to growing as multi-stemmed specimens, so if you are unsure, ask before you buy. The following species can all be grown in this way: Eucalyptus, Himalayan birch – Betula utilis var. jacquemontii, Snake bark maple – Acer davidii, Tibetan cherry – Prunus serrula, Hazel – Corylus, Willow – Salix.

A traditional laburnum walkway makes a spectacular feature in early summer, and can be created in most gardens. Enjoy its blast of seasonal color, and plant around it to double the display.

When to plant: Late autumn.

At their best: Early summer.

Time to complete: 4 days.

You will need: 4 laburnum trees (or more for a longer walk), metal-framed fruit tree arch, spade, fork, tree ties, wire.

Install the arch supports

You can buy sturdy fruit tree or vine arches in a variety of sizes to suit your needs. Select two that will span your walkway, or ask a blacksmith to make a set to fit your design. Most metal arches are simply set into the soil.

Plant and train

Plant one tree next to each arch upright, water well, and secure with a tree tie. Train the branches over the arch as they grow, tying them in with tree or tube ties. Over time, you may find it necessary to link the arches with coated wires to support new stems.

Aftercare

Water the trees regularly for the first two years until they are established, and check and loosen tree ties every few months. Feed each spring with a shrub and tree fertilizer to promote the best possible display. Prune any wayward branches in winter, and regularly remove thicker, woodier growth to make space for young flowering stems. Plant other shrubs and climbers below and nearby for additional color. All parts of a laburnum are poisonous if ingested, so do not plant where children or pets play.

Tip: Underplanting

Bulbs are ideal for planting beneath your arch. Early bulbs, such as daffodils, will flower before the trees, while tulips and alliums bloom at the same time. Shade-loving ferns will provide long-lasting interest.